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The Campaigner

5.12c/d PG13, Trad, 50 ft,  Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
FA: ??? Ken Duncan or Jeff Achey???
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Climb the leaning, overhanging, corner crack just right of "Dead Line." Bicep pumping, under-clinging, crack fusion madness and solid, core tension coupled with a delicate dose of old school foot smearing should see you though to the more perplexing moves of pulling around the bulge and into the right-facing corner that joins with the ending of "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."

Great line!! Both powerful and technical climbing that is sure to entertain all those who attempt this obvious and attractive old school classic. Don't get ahead of yourself on this route and you should do fine.

Either 2nd the line on (TR) to clean it or continue to the summit (not recommended) via 1 or 2 short pitches if you wish. Beware of lose rock towards the summit if topping out "Castle Rock."

It's possible to (TR) this line by climbing "Rebellion" if you can get some gear in just around and under the crux bulge. Still...it's a much better lead!!

Location

Located in the big roof area on the west side of "Castle Rock" just right of "Dead Line." It's the right-most, leaning, roof crack just before you turn the corner heading towards "Rebellion" and "Crank It."

Protection

Gear to about 2 inches. Fixed anchor that is shared with "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"The Campaigner."  Located at "Castle Rock" in Boulder Canyon, Co.  Sweet line!!
[Hide Photo] "The Campaigner." Located at "Castle Rock" in Boulder Canyon, Co. Sweet line!!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Walters
Grand Junction, CO
[Hide Comment] Just got back from a rainy day aid practice session and this route was perfect. Great gear, and totally dry as opposed to the A2 roof crack next door. Sep 12, 2012
mike c
golden
 
[Hide Comment] I removed the 2nd pin (#3 angle). It was loose and damaged. I did not replace it as it is not needed...plenty of gear (small cams). I also removed the first pin (#1 angle). It was damaged as well but not as bad as the second pin. I replaced it with a brand new one. Now it's a little safer and solid for some whippin' and such. Jun 21, 2014
Anonymous User
[Hide Comment] You tha man, C! Will be gettin' on this soon. Apr 30, 2016
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I watched Mark Rolofson work this about 1982, completely mobbed by lycra clad hard-women. Austin Power's mojo is nothing compared to Mark's. Women in Boulder would push and shove at the grocery store just to stand next to him in line! Later, just like a super-agent, he would keep us safe from the trad bullies. Aug 16, 2018