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Routes in Super Bowl Wall

Back in the Saddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everest 201 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fallout aka Disintegration S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hamster Forever S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Higher, Harder One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
JP's Variation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
More Obsessive Tendencies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sick at 17000 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simple Simon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smash the Poser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Texas Chosspile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where's My Sherpa? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian Team, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 600 total, 6/month
Shared By: KipHenrie on Jan 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

The first 3 bolts is strenuous with no feet with sloping holds. Just grunt up this to a nice no hands rest. Moving up to the old chains placement is really fun - supposedly 11b to this point, I thought it was easier. Big moves to big holds.

At the old chain placement the moves get trickier and steeper. It slopes in slightly then bulges out. The next 3-4 moves is the obvious crux. As you reach this insloping area find crimps - then to an interesting triangular pocket, a pinch, a crimp then a bigger hold at the next crease. Once thru it you are rewarded with awesome traversing jugs to the chains. You'll be pumped and exposed but the holds are there.

Location

Right of Back in the Saddle.

Protection

10 bolts to chains

Photos

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Despite the 2 star rating (I gave it 3) I really enjoyed this route. The upper half is the same as the climb to the right (Everest 201)...but the lower half features some fun slopers (with bad feet) up to a nice hand jam, a few nice jugs and then a fun switch onto the top of Everest. The start move seems a bit intimidating but is ok and can be stick clipped if that makes you feel safer (we didn't see the need too, as a fall would suck but wouldn't send you rolling down the hill). The upper crux is mega classic, moving off a 1 1/2 finger crimp into a nice horn for a quick shake out, then instantly into a mono followed by a blob 2 finger hold up to a tiny crimp and a desperate grab for an ok hold. After that it's just keeping it together to get to and clip the chains. Jun 24, 2015