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Routes in SW Face Center (The Solarium)

Witness Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Alibi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Broken Hearted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fresh Step TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of Order S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Remembering Marina S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tim's Valentine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Uppercut T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, December 2009
Page Views: 963 total, 10/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 29, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Far left side of the Solarium, begins left of the big corner/gully.

Climb a face past 2 bolts (5.9) up to a ledge, then lieback a short, right facing dihedral to a right-slanting crack under a roof. Pumper jams (hand to fingers) with a tricky exit.

2 bolt lower off anchor (100 ft.)


.4 to 4 inches, 2 bolts. 2 bolt lower-off anchor.


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Very fun route and well worth doing if at the area and worth carrying a small rack - especially as the hike is so easy.

Climbed as the second and found the route varied with a few face moves, then a great block with perfect hands (any hand will do) to gain the traversing horizontal crack. The crack starts off a little wide (3.5" worked like a dream) then necks down smaller 2", hands and fingers as you approach the bolted anchor.

We were expecting some grains or lacking feet but was pleasantly surprised on both accounts. Graced with one of the FA's at the base, Mr. Gaines gave a little beta that the crack might be grungy (which it was) but not horrible by any means.

Bumping the star value on this one - good stuff. Nov 6, 2013