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Routes in Unaweep Canyon

Bean Gulch WI3
Bull Draw WI2-3
Fall Creek WI3
Quarry Pillar WI6
Snyder Cleft WI3-4
Snyder Falls WI3
Spooky Tooth WI4+
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Type: Ice, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 857 total · 8/month
Shared By: Douglas Lossner on Jan 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Lots of private land. Details

Description

Very sorry, but after being told this was Fall Creek, I investigated and sure enough this is not N. Lobe Creek. This is a stream bed that has three main steps. The first is low angle, smooth ice. The second can go left with low angle ice or right with some steep icicles and cauliflower. The third and the crux can go left with some 80 degree ice or right through short cauliflower/icecicle steps. Staying right, could make the climb 3+/4 This climb could be a good easy to moderate climb during real cold conditions. However, the day we did it, it was running very hard making most sections detached from the rock and unprotectable. We ended up free soloing the entire route.

The hike in was 30 minutes of gnarly posting into baseless snow with deadfall, rocks, and scruboak. It is not steep. NOTE: This is private land! We just recently got asked to leave. Please ask at Fall Creek Ranch before proceeding. This is just on the other side of the road from Fall Creek. We called the owner and he gave us parameters for climbing on his property. Notorized liabilty release form. Thanks.

Location

22.5 miles into the canyon towards Gateway on the west side of the highway. Visible from road.

Protection

Screws and V-threads during cold, solid conditions. Rappels are off of trees. Some downclimbing with a single 60 meter rope.

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