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Unnamed Arete

5.12a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 26 votes
FA: Dave Lucas & Barak Shemai
New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Rough & Ready H… > (D) Original Area

Description

This is a spectacular, continuously overhanging pitch with marginal rests and little if any filler climbing. The rock is sharp and a bit crumbly in places, which is the only thing that keeps me from giving it 4 stars. It starts off with very steep, bouldery moves, then continues with less steep but more technical climbing up the arete. The climbing eases slightly once you reach the giant flake, but if you're like me, your arms are screaming by this point so things still feel quite hard. Lay-back for glory to the anchors!

Rock Climbing New Mexico gives the route a grade of "11d/12a," which is not an option on Mountain Project, so I just call it 11d.

Location

Currently the farthest left route at the Rough and Readies. Climbs the obvious arete with bouldery start, to an overhanging flake.

Protection

7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The first bolt is easy to clip, but a clip stick might be advisable for the second bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nils sticking the crux move
[Hide Photo] Nils sticking the crux move
Unnamed Arete
[Hide Photo] Unnamed Arete
A clean picture of the arete
[Hide Photo] A clean picture of the arete

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jorge Achata
Lima, Peru
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] A good sidepull is gone from the very beginning of the route; third move or so, depending on your beta. That might just add enough pump factor to make it lean more towards 5.12. A couple other holds feel like they won't stay there forever, but they are still solid for Rough and Readies type of rock. Jun 4, 2013
Taylor J
Taos NM
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] I would have to disagree and say in no way is this route harder than 11d but it's still a great route. Jan 9, 2015
Jason Carlson
El Paso, TX
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This feels harder than Abbey (5.12a) at the Tunnel but easier than Scott (also 5.12a) to me. May 28, 2015
Anthony McGlone
Las Cruces, NM
  5.12a PG13
[Hide Comment] Found new beta for the start, which was the crux for me. Lots of broken holds at the overhung beginning, feels like a V3 boulder problem, to me.

Broke a massive (1.5' x 2') foothold off at the start of the large flake at the top.

Use a stick clip or pads to protect the first few moves/bolts. Decking from the 2nd bolt is very possible. Dec 20, 2016
Ryan Salazar
 
[Hide Comment] This route is for sure a solid 12a, and is approachable for those looking to obtain the grade. The danger of the challenging boulder problem at the start is made easier if you stick clip the second bolt. Doing a bunch of jug moves, you can get an alright rest at the midway point fourth bolt. The last boulder problem and flake stand between you and the send. Almost all the holds are amazing jugs except for the two boulder problems, putting it all together is what makes this climb great. The star rating neglects rock quality because at the moment all the moves are so good. However, as it stands the boulder problem at the start has a scary block so the stick clip is highly recommended. May 5, 2018
Thomas Pham
Las Cruces, NM
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The block right below the second bolt has been there for a long time. I think it's going to stay! IMO, there are two distinctive crux's on this route, the first three bolts and entering the crack. Bottom crux is about a v3 boulder problem. Then, you get some filler climbing between jugs and crimps. You later get a long rest on jugs before entering the crack which is the second crux. I grab a good pinch/crimp thingy with my left hand to reach up and sink a finger lock into the crack. After that, you're on good holds with many possible rests. If you're pumped at the top, look for a kneebar. It's there. Feb 28, 2019