Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (A1) Utopian Vista Upper Tier

(18) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
(19) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Adios Compadres T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aldous T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baba Ram Dass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Be Here Now T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bitch Slapped S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Mamba S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brave New World T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Berets T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chile Line S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Debt Ceiling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fourth of You Lie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Times... Are Killing Me!, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Humpty Ass T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
I Came As A Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
LSD S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Man... Who Killed The Deer!, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Man...Who Brought the Gear!, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meltdown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Modest Mouse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monarch Migration T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Wretch Gang, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One Chance... To Get Everything Right S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Oppie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pyrocumulonimbus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Smoke Signals T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sons & Lovers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Places T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tsunami T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Walking Rain S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
We All Float On S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Welcome to Utopia S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whitey on the Moon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zipper Club T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob D. and J. Foley
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jan 24, 2010
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A fun, positive right-angling crack with no feet leads up for about 10 feet to a wide slot and a decent stance. Despite the appearance you don't need big gear. Pull up and right out of the slot along the crack and then test your flexibility with a big leg stretch left to a good ledge and a rest. An all-too-short perfect hand crack goes up for eight feet to easier ground to the top and the tree for an anchor.

When Kit Carson passed away in May 1868, a month after his wife Josefa, his last words were "Adios Compadres".

Location

A few feet right of I Came As A Rat past a big roof. Look for the tree at the top that serves as the anchor. A sling and single locking biner on the tree provide the anchor. A flat rock with the number "10" spelled out using tiny rocks may be at the start.

Note that we *think* this route is left of Man in the Arena but we didn't find that route so we're not completely sure. Just look for the big roof and tree and you'll be there.

Protection

Single .5 to #2 camalots. Possibly doubles if you want to really sew it up.

Photos

Mike Howard    
Vaya Con Dios... Great work guys. Probably a nice final pitch to head out of the climbing park below. Adios Compadres in a word. Jan 25, 2010