All Locations > New Mexico > Taos Area > Utopian Vistas > (A1) Utopian Vista Up…

I Came As A Rat

Name: I Came As A Rat
Rating: 1.5

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in (A1) Utopian Vista Upper Tier

L › R R › L A › Z

	(18) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	(19) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Adios Compadres T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Aldous T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Baba Ram Dass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Be Here Now T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bitch Slapped S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Black Mamba S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Brave New World T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Brown Berets T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Chile Line S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Debt Ceiling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fourth of You Lie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Good Times... Are Killing Me!, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Humpty Ass T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	I Came As A Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	LSD S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Man... Who Killed The Deer!, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Man...Who Brought the Gear!, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Meltdown T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Modest Mouse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Monarch Migration T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Monkey Wretch Gang, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	One Chance... To Get Everything Right S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Oppie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pyrocumulonimbus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Smoke Signals T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Sons & Lovers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Thin Places T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tsunami T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Walking Rain S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	We All Float On S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Welcome to Utopia S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Whitey on the Moon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Zipper Club T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 50 ft
FA:	Bob D. and J. Foley
Page Views:	140 total · 1/month
Shared By:	Jason Halladay on Jan 24, 2010
Admins:	Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Description

Scramble up easy rock for 12 feet to reach a fun (but much too short) wide fingers corner that is best tackled via laybacking to a decent ledge. Continue up steeper but positive climbing in the shallow corner to the top. Watch your head on the piñon tree branches at the top.

The route protects very well and is not very sustained so it would make for a very good beginner gear lead.

Location

Start approximately 80 feet right of We All Float On just to the right of a big roof. The tree at the top is a good landmark. There's a good chance a flat rock with the number "7" spelled out using tiny little rocks is at the base.

Note that we *think* this route is left of Man in the Arena but we didn't find that route so we're not completely sure. Just look for the big roof and tree and you'll be there.

Protection

Small to medium SLCDs and a rack of nuts. The tree at the top serves as a good anchor. The route protects very well and is not very sustained so it would make for a very good beginner gear lead.

Rap from 2 bolt anchor next to tree.