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Routes in (2) Brogan Spire

Barred Reality S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cave Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Death Of a Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Stoke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pouches S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short Sharp Shock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash the Silence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Under the Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed Frenchman’s Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walking on Broken Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,418 total · 14/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jan 23, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Start on jugs, semi-jugs, and good crimps. Keep cool for the powerful crux, which comes at roughly mid-height. I had to cut my feet on the throw at the crux - something I rarely have to do for a moderate route at Smith. The finish is a rightward traverse. It looks like it's going to turn sinister at any moment, but just enjoy it, the hardest is behind you.
It's well-protected and is one of those rare Smith moderates that requires a bit of power and dynamism. Combine all this with the fact that it's secluded, requires a beautiful hike, and is set in one of the more pristine areas of Smith.

Pouches is a great route, and suggests to me that much of the west face of Brogan is climbable (at relatively high grades), if anyone wants to put up some new routes. This route will likely end up being the most accessible in the area.

Location

Just downhill from The Optimist, with a little cave underneath. You'll recognize it for the attractive jugs at the start, and because it'll probably have more chalk than anything else around.

Protection

Draws - it's overhanging enough to be a bit tricky to clean. It's not impossible for the leader on rappel, but you might consider having a second follow up to clean it.

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