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Routes in Starved Rock State Park

Fang, The T,TR WI4+
French Cayon WI1
Hennepin Canyon WI3-4
Ice Hose WI3-4
Lasalle Canyon WI2-3
Ottawa Cayon WI4+
Pontiac TR WI4-
Pontiac Canyon TR WI4-
Snake, The T,TR WI4-5
Starved Rock Ice History WI4-
Tonti TR WI3-4
Totem Pole TR WI4-
Virgin, The TR WI5
Wildcat TR WI4
Type: TR, Ice
FA: Ed Mank
Page Views: 1,754 total, 18/month
Shared By: sunder on Jan 21, 2010
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route

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State Park Regulated by the IL DNR Details


Fang in Wildcat Canyon on the left... Don't know if this was ever climbed before.


Wilcat Canyon


I climbed this many times in either 02 or 03. It was a fantastic
year for it. It had a rope on it for several weeks straight. It was
even led a few times until the column broke near the top and tilted
against the rock. In great years you also have a fantastic curtain
you can traverse to from about 3/4 of the way up.

By the way, stop by the old Starved Rock outfitters store and Tom
or Mark can give you a full history of the formation. It was climbed
many many years before the 80's.

Cheers. Dec 21, 2010
I think Tom Coleman did this in the 80's- it didn't quite touch the ground so there was some rock move or two to start then transition onto the ice. Apr 6, 2010
Wow, looks like the best shape ever, one of the these rare yrs, like when a fang formed at Ottawa Canyon, in the 80's Feb 22, 2010
This thing was VERY wet on 2/21/10. I see it is rare to come in and I'm glad I got on it even though it was more like swimming ;) Feb 22, 2010
Have only seen it delicately form a couple times over last 30 years. Rumor says someone climbed the whole thing in last 10 years but I've never seen a photo or heard a name or date until these posts. I was lowered down from the top to play on it once, but it was only a top curtain back then, and not close to being safe. My guess is this Jan/Feb formation in 2010 is seeing the first numerous repeats since the dateless first ascent. It comes in as second highest 'legal' climb in the park right now, at about 80 ft or so. Has held my interest (lust, desire) for many many years. Feb 20, 2010
FYI, it has been climbed TR, in the 90's, I climbed it, Ed Mank climbed it first, FA? it did not touch the ground, require a couple of one arm pull ups, and lock offs, easy for Ed, he's very strong, it was down 2 weeks later, I've seen it form two times in 30yrs in the early 80's and 90's, Feb 17, 2010
This climb first was seen touching down back in early 80's, and called 'The Virgin' back then. Usually falls down just about when it starts getting fat enough to try....thus the name. Someone claimed to have climbed it during the 09' season but I doubt that very much. Jan 25, 2010