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Routes in Mosquito Coast

Ant Line T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Antline Boulder Problem TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V4 6B
Boot Licker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fly the Friendly Skies TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hanging Garden T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangtown T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hermit Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Mustard T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Octopus' Gardens T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scratchin' for Gold T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sluice Box TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight Lines T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Susan Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Twist and Shout T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Water Traverse V5 6C
bouldering circuit T V2 5+
Type: Trad, Boulder
FA: 70s/80s
Page Views: 110 total · 1/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Jan 21, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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If you're ever there with an hour or so to kill, this little bouldering circuit is pretty decent. This isn't well covered in Cottrell's guide so I'll run through what I like. These problems were worked out in the 70s/80s by a group of Placerville climbers: Bob Branscomb, Don Garrett (by far THE MAN here), Kim Treadaway, and Ron Vardanega.
See Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville guide for over all picture.
Start in Octopus' Gardens area, do the V0 traverse both ways from Octos Gardens to Golden Road a few times. Then the start to Her Cheeks, V0 to the chockstone. Boulder the 5.10+ start to Reluctant Elevation, drop off with care. Go to Susan Forever, do the V2 stemming grunt(sit start)to the chockstone on the lip, drop off with care (fall into river potential here). Do the V1 traverse (sit start)from Susan Forever to Straight Lines. Attempt the V2 run from Susan Forever to Sickle Ledge (sit start), drop off with care. Sickle Ledge is an inobvious crimp above the Susan Forever Cave, right of that crack. Boulder the start of Bush Whack (sit start) to the jug on the right, drop off. Do the right to left traverse from the boulder below Mr. Mustard to Bush Whack (V1 to V3 depending on low or high through cave), and continue either to Straight Lines (V2) or up Bush Whack to jug. Do Talk is Cheap (V1 or V2) to the Bush Whack jug, drop. There's a short no hands slab (9) on the south side of the boulder below Mr. Mustard. Boulder the 5.9 mantel problem on the right side of a boulder under the trees half way bewteen Mr. Mustard and Antline. Do the three 5.9-5.10a face problems to the right of Antline.
Something to do here besides jamming yourself to death.


Base of the Mosquito Bridge and on the face right of Antline.


Bouldering pad is almost a must...some hard landings otherwise.


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