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Routes in Castle Rock of Triermain

Agony E2 5A T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Eliminate Girdle. E1 5b T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gazebo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Last Laugh E4 6b, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rigor Mortis E2 5c T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thirlmere Eliminate. E1 5b T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Dwarf. E4 6a T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Paul Ross ,Bill Aughton . 18th April 1959.
Page Views: 451 total · 4/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jan 20, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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A bold second pitch and the third pitch is very exposed. Some aid was used on P2 on the first ascent, as the climb was done from the ground up on sight the upper groove of this pitch was completely moss covered . A few years later as the pitch was now clean Martin Boyson free climbed this pitch in mistake for another climb.Start at a shallow corner just right of the perched flake of Thirlmere Eliminate.P1).Climb the wall up to a small overhang ,then follow the crack to the long ledge.50' 5.8.P2)Climb the thin corner to the left of the white cone to the top of the cone. Step up and traverse the steep little wall to the left to reach the shallow groove. Climb the groove and belay on the ledge of Thirlmere Eliminate.65' 5.10b.P3)Climb around the corner to the right and follow some intermittent gangways ending with a swing round a rib into the final chimney.Up this to the top.A sensational pitch.75'5.9


Castle Rock North Crag. see FRCC guide to Buttermere and the Eastern Crags


Normal Rack ...Cams and Stoppers.



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