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Routes in Carbuncle Buttress

Handy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Made to be Broken S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Riddler's Delight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Drew Spaulding,Doug Byerly,Ty Hydrusko
Page Views: 2,774 total · 29/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Jan 20, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

6 pitches of fantastic 5.9-5.10 crack climbing... with a short 5.8 pitch to finish the formation...

Location

Directly up and behind the Zion Lodge...Starting around the right in a "box chimney" up into a 5" crack to the Anchors. Then you'll these obvious arching splitters that eventually lead up to the lichened green face above. You'll see a thin crack in the green face that fades out into another thin crack up and right... 6 pitches of 5.10a/b-ish climbing to a final 5.8 pitch

Protection

Standard desert rack with pro to 4"-5"
Gary N
Durango, CO
 
Gary N   Durango, CO
 
I enjoyed the route. Better than I thought it would be with a few memorable pitches. We did the original first pitch to the very top to also enjoy the adventure coming back down. It was a neat experience 'canyoneering' on the descent and passing all the airplane wreckage. Aug 14, 2014
A good mix of type 1 and type 2 fun. One can avoid the run out chimney on the first pitch variation by climbing just to the left. A bit sandy but there is gear 5.9. The finger crack variation is good too 5.10ish but super sandy above with vegeneering to the hand crack pitch. Definitely some d blocks on fifth pitch. One pin and one loose bolt on top sixth pitch that we skipped in favor of the much worse descent out left. Skip the last pitch and rap from anchor at top of fifth pitch or bring a bolt kit. Apr 23, 2013
There are some good pitches (particularly 2 & 3) but be prepared for loose blocks and fragile chips on the last several. No where near as good as the established classics like Iron Messiah or the Headache. The first pitch (we did the var.) is good but a bit of a strainer with real somewhat runout 5.9 chimneying. I'd recommend bring double ropes and rapping the route. Apr 20, 2011
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
There is a topo on page 144 of the Supertopo book. There is also good beta for the descent (if you go to the top) under the description for Risk Management on page 146. The biggest piece we brought was a #4 C4. Nov 27, 2010
brianadvenures   slc
 
I'd like to add that we did another variation up too the 3rd pitch. If you walk along carbuncle and keep high, dont go to the lower start, eventually you will run into a gully on your left. Walk in it about 50ft and there is a beautiful splitter finger/hand crack up the wall. After that its a dirty seam, but very fun. Lasso the block for a belay up top. EXCELLENT ADV. route. Oct 3, 2010
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
 
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
 
Hey Caleb thanks for the comments... It's been at least 10+ years since I've been back to The Riddler's Delight. Not since we did the 1st ascent... I do remember saying most pitches were 5.9+ except the 3rd or 4th pitch in the left-facing corner(10b/c). I really need to get back to Zion... Great memories!! Jan 30, 2010
Caleb Padgett
Rockville, utah
Caleb Padgett   Rockville, utah
This is a very fun climb and more on the moderate side as far as zion climbing goes. There is a good topo to be had at the climbing shop in springdale and a good description in the new guide, but no topo. The original first pitch climbed up and tunnels through car sized boulders, very frightening. Apparently there is a variation to the left that climbs a splitter in a varnished face. The rest of the climb is fun and straightforward. Only one or two 5.10 pitches with short cruxes. Most of the climb is 5.8 or 5.9. Gets sun from midday on. Overall a little easier than iron mesiah. Jan 25, 2010