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Routes in Outback Wall

Cling to Evil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feline Grace S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Four Feathers, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lightning Strikes Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pentecost T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saga S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spank Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: ARussell on Jan 19, 2010 with updates
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Cling to Evil is a slightly overhanging sport climb on good, flat crimps. Long arms will simplify the two extremely reachy cruxes on the first half of the route. Ironically, long legs make the double knee bar no-hands rest at mid-height somewhat strenuous. A slight runout up top keeps the climber focused in wet conditions.

Location

This route climbs just right of the arete that caps the left side of the face with the two popular 10a's, Pentecost and The Four Feathers.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

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Tom Abrams  
 
Just FYI - the new all Arkansas guide book tags this at 5.12a (as of 2015). Could see it at 11d, especially with the killer no-hands rest half way up, but the reachiness did make it feel closer to 5.12a for me at 5'8" since the low crux was a bit dynamic for me and the top crux was definitely a fair huck to a crimp, maybe I missed some beta. Fun route though. Feb 29, 2016