Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Red Light District

Autocratic for the People S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cold Shoulder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cornered Market T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dutch Maiden S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jacob's Ladder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammplitude S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mrs. Treated S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand in my Pocket and the Other on a Stout S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Pool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Proposition One S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Size Matters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Timeless Christian Values S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Turnin' Tricks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown In Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vapor Lock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young and the Restless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eddie Whittemore - 1998
Page Views: 1,054 total · 10/month
Shared By: yevquest on Jan 19, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A nice face route that gets little traffic despite climbing good rock with fun albeit slightly tweaky moves.

Climb the same 4 bolts as Vapor Lock to a huge rest. From here the route is on for the next 20 feet or so. Climb crimps, sidepulls, a sneaky undercling, more sidepulls, all with tricky feet, to an obvious good hold. The last bit is an easy victory romp leading to double ring anchors.

Some of the draws were a little hard to clip. This was my clipping system: From the big rest, easily clip a bolt from the undercling system. The next bolt would be very hard to clip as you're right in the crux. I hung a shoulder length sling from this bolt and clipped from the last good hold before starting the crux. The next bolt I clipped from above once you're out of the business.

Location

From climbers access 2, follow the trail downstream for 150 yards, passing the shorter routes on the ledge. A tall, clean wall is just to the left. Autocratic for the People climbs the plumb line on the left side of this wall, just to the right of the arete. The start is shared with Vapor Lock.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments

More About Autocratic for the People

Printer-Friendly