Autocratic for the People
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||Eddie Whittemore - 1998|
|Page Views:||1,018 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||yevquest on Jan 19, 2010|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough|
DescriptionA nice face route that gets little traffic despite climbing good rock with fun albeit slightly tweaky moves.
Climb the same 4 bolts as Vapor Lock to a huge rest. From here the route is on for the next 20 feet or so. Climb crimps, sidepulls, a sneaky undercling, more sidepulls, all with tricky feet, to an obvious good hold. The last bit is an easy victory romp leading to double ring anchors.
Some of the draws were a little hard to clip. This was my clipping system: From the big rest, easily clip a bolt from the undercling system. The next bolt would be very hard to clip as you're right in the crux. I hung a shoulder length sling from this bolt and clipped from the last good hold before starting the crux. The next bolt I clipped from above once you're out of the business.
LocationFrom climbers access 2, follow the trail downstream for 150 yards, passing the shorter routes on the ledge. A tall, clean wall is just to the left. Autocratic for the People climbs the plumb line on the left side of this wall, just to the right of the arete. The start is shared with Vapor Lock.
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