Type: Ice, 100 ft, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,660 total · 21/month
Shared By: Douglas Lossner on Jan 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Lots of private land. Oil and Gas. Be careful when choosing trailheads. Details

Description

First of all, I found fixed anchors at the top of this climb?? I would sure like to know if this climb was led before or if these anchors were there for top roping, or? Really sorry to put a name on this climb if it was already led? I could not find info anywhere. This climb was soaking wet, and the front of the pillar was unclimbable slush and unconsolidated icicles. The left side also had a slush section making it unclimbable. The only line this day was the right side, and it was a narrow line with very sparse pro with an X factor fall possible. From the ground, the top cone was so hollowed out it looked like it was possibly unclimbable also. There are two cruxes. The middle of the climb, overhanging for thirty feet with absolutely no pro. Possible 80 foot ground fall, giving it its 6 rating. The second crux was the top cone and roof moves. The cone was so hollowed out, it created a very dicey move around the roof, followed by no pro to the top anchors. A lead I will not soon forget. The roof moves were protected with a screw and a v-thread placed very close to one another. If you plan on doing this climb, be prepared for a long day. 5 hour round trip hike. This is a south-facing climb, so conditions are probably always going to be dangerous. Since our outing went without incident, it was totally awesome.

Location

I noticed this climb about ten years ago as a quick glimpse to my right while driving towards Grand Junction right after mile marker 71. Just the top half of the climb visible and you have to know what you are looking at. It took me so long to finally try and bag it because of the obvious logistical problems; access, approach, south-facing. Approach was from frontage road right by mile marker 71. Kelly Gulch was the access drainage. 1.5 miles in the drainage we accessed a ridgeline west out of Kelly drainage for 1.5 miles. Steep with snow and scrub oak. Very gruelling.

Protection

Only two small sections of the entire formation would take screws or v-threads. Two bolts with chains at the top.

Photos