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Routes in Volunteer Wall

A Chip Off the Old Sturnum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anger Management T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darwin Loves You S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Donor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fahq Yeah V0-1 4+
Family Tradition S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Farley's Folly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
First Time S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Shower Tokens, a Guinness, and My Girl T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Generosity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Haas Memorial Route, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Helping Hands S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hurt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Johnny on Roofies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let's Boogie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice To Know You S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Normalised Bramapithecus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinkies Extended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Same Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Glove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stephanie's Cabaret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Swap Meet S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tong Shing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Walmartification of Trad, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Andy Pense, Sam Watson, J.J., Jared Hancock, 2005
Page Views: 504 total · 5/month
Shared By: Adam Love on Jan 18, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Crux near the 6th bolt. Trust your body position and statically clip the 6th bolt. Highly technical climb requiring forethought and deliberate maneuvers.

Enjoy the crimps and slopers.

Bring a Squib Clip for the first clip, or be sure to spot the climber until clipped.

Location

The next bolted line around the corner to the right of "Family Tradition." Nearly to the corner.

Protection

6 Bolts, and 2 bolts for Anchors. Rap off to save integrity of the rope.

Photos

Derrick Keene
Kentucky
 
Derrick Keene   Kentucky
 
Short, but super fun route Apr 7, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.10d
Franck Vee  
  5.10d
PG13 really? I thought the first bolt wasn't really taken into account for that kind of rating - you can stick clip it. Unless you refer to another clip higher up - I don't recall from the top of my head, you may be right, though it didn't strike me as particularly sketchy anywhere above 1st bolt.

The point is: if we PG13 every first high bolt, then a significant portion of climbs become PG13 and the rating then becomes useless for actually dangerous climbs. Oct 16, 2017

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