Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Fire Fly

5.8, Sport, 115 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
FA: Marc Volland - July 2008
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > Yosemite Falls… > Five Open Books > First Tier
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A good little line that can be climbed while walking off any of the Five Open Book routes. The base of the climb is on a large grassy ledge about 50 ft. down from the granite scramble with the rap rings on it.

The crux is a ten foot section just past the first bolt. After that the route cuts right and pleasantly climbs up easy face holds, passing over a grassy terrace before gaining the anchor. Bolts are about every 20 ft. or so.

Sunny in the Winter and scorching in the Summer.

Location

This route is on the far left side of the Five Open Books area. It is on the large ledge left and up from Mungenella. Left of the forgotten classic Antique and Tucker Tech's route Jughead. Look for a large triangular shaped slab with a copper streak on the cliff just to its right. Fire Fly starts up this copper streak. The first bolt is about 20 feet up.

Protection

Lead this climb with five quick draws. There is a two bolt rap anchor at the top and can just barely be rappelled with one 70m rope.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Osprey Overhang
...
  5.8
[Hide Comment] You can place a small alien between the belay and the first bolt if you are concerned about safety while climbing above a ledge. The ledge is about 15ft. wide but there is a 50ft. drop to the true base of the cliff. Feb 5, 2010
[Hide Comment] The 10 foot, grassy ledge that this is on is accessible by first following a steep climber's trail/washout upward on the far left and then backtracking to the right on the nearly horizontal ledge. The route is rather featureless and slabby at the start. Look for the first bolt 20 feet up on a large, vertical copper streak on a slab.

First bolt is quite high but easy enough to reach via a crack just to left; beware loose rocks. Couldn't get to 3rd bolt. Sep 11, 2019
Ryuta Oshikiri
San Francisco, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The climb tops out on a dirty ledge with lots of loose soil after the last bolt. First half has very tender slab moves then gets a little bit easier afterwards. Definitely requires a full 70m rope to rappel down. Nov 29, 2019