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Routes in Lightning Bolt Crag

Crack Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracker Dream TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge to a Smear TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Vertical Beach T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,542 total, 16/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 15, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the obvious zig-zag crack system, mostly hands, which splits the west face of the crag. Gear belay and walk off.

Location

Left side of the west face.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
 
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
 
I've climbed this route a dozen times or so now. I don't think the pro is bad, just sparse. First piece of 3 or 4 I place is 20ft or so off the ground.

Pulling the rope can be a pain in the ass. I did not use the new anchors. I don't know much about bolting, but perhaps replacing the old buttonheads with rapp hangers would be nice? Feb 28, 2016
Eric Orloski
High Desert area by New Jack C
  5.8 PG13
Eric Orloski   High Desert area by New Jack C
  5.8 PG13

There are two new anchors set further back from the button head bolts. The down climb on the backside of the route is necessary since pulling your rope is next to impossible off this route. I agree with the other post about gear being difficult to place. The route is pretty easy but the gear placements on the first half of the route are not very good at all. i managed to use a large hex on the bottom and some nut placements down low. About halfway up there a few good spots that are parallel that take cams nicely or a medium hex. I wouldn't trust falling on my bottom gear placements at all. This a great route to practice tricky gear placing low on route. I wish there was more trad at Apple valley. I need to explore this place more Nov 15, 2014
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
Pro is not that bad. I really don't think it 5.8 after climbing in Josh all winter. Apr 7, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.8 PG13
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.8 PG13
Both button head anchor bolts at the top are spinners, and the decomposing granite does not promote using a trad anchor. The protection on this route is difficult at best in decomposing granite (not secure). The majority of the crack is flaring; offset cams might work better. Not recommended for a budding trad leader. Might as well solo the damn thing; I definitely wouldn't want to test any of my pieces on it with a fall.

However, the moves are enjoyable, and this is one of the only trad lines in Horseman's Center. Mar 20, 2012