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Routes in Sector Calcaneus

A Million Elephants and a White Parasol S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angels and Dæmons S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ankiakigokja S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cand Med S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chao Ling Chep Lai Lai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dream Catcher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Les Larmes du Chaos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Money Can't Buy Me Love S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wangoet Wong S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Isabelle and Volker Schoeffl, April '07
Page Views: 330 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jan 13, 2010
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Description

The guides get a bit confusing on which is which in this area, so I'm taking a guess. Based on the length this one should continue on and up to the right linking with a route called Proper Training is Essential (5.11+), making for a rope stretching pitch at solid 5.12.

The lower section starts off on the left of two broken crack systems, climbing up crimps and sidepulls and then pulling over a bulge into a large almost completely blank face. Welcome to cruxville. It's only a few moves, but it's super thin and reachy. After that you can traverse right to the Angels and Dæmons anchor, or continue up another 15 meters or so.

Location

Protection

For the lower part you only need 4 or 5 draws.

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