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Routes in Sector Calcaneus

A Million Elephants and a White Parasol S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angels and Dæmons S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ankiakigokja S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cand Med S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chao Ling Chep Lai Lai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dream Catcher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Les Larmes du Chaos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Money Can't Buy Me Love S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wangoet Wong S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Thorsten Bauer, April '06
Page Views: 922 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jan 13, 2010
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Description [Suggest Change]

Another area classic and best of the grade.

Climbs up an interesting bit of vertical wall with some funky moves over and up a small corner. The crux is the huge tuffa/stalactite hanging in the middle of the route and involves some chimney/scumming maneuvers that might allude some Sportos. Long, sustained, and interesting; a must do.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the right wall of the huge corner that makes up Sector Calcaneus. The left line of bolts, head right at the split just below the second (huge) tuffa.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A dozen draws or so.

Photos

If you run out of bolts to clip, the anchor is hidden down and left of the big tufa. Good route but I don't like using chord slung through tufas as pro (only one though). Dec 1, 2016

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