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Routes in B1 Boulder

Corner, The V0 4
Crack Direct V5- 6C
Crack, The V3 6A
Cracksma V6 7A
Ear, The V3-4 6A+
Expansion Chamber V7 7A+
Flying Circus V5 6C
Hog Tied V1 5 R
Hog Tied Traverse V4 6B
Master of Reality V5 6C
Pink Floyd V4 6B
Two Scoops V1+ 5
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Bob Kamps
Page Views: 1,043 total · 10/month
Shared By: sam.f on Jan 13, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

There are several different ways to do this problem... I believe the sit start adds some difficulty (V6?), and, depending on who you ask, a hold may be "off". Hey, it's Stoney; isn't everything an eliminate?
Begin on the lowest hold/holds in the "ear" and either bust out right (good incut) and mantle or mantle from the positive right hand gaston. A semi-good smear for the left foot helps the mantle. Get established, and reach up with the left hand to a small but positive undercling/undercling-gaston then try to stand-up in the "ear". This part may be easier said than done for taller folks. Reach up and right-ish to a decent slimper (slopey-crimper) and top-out using good footholds and jugs.

Location

If walking from Boulder1, the Ear is, as the name suggests, the ear-shaped feature on the arete of the B1 boulder, and is across from Crowd Pleaser (on the Turlock Boulder). It is right of Master of Reality and Expansion Chamber, left of ELP, Apesma, Waugh Cross-through, Titty Fuck, etc.

Protection

pad if you want

Photos

Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
V3/V4 seems pretty low. I still haven't sent the thing and not for lack of trying. I'm closer to sending the Font than the Ear. Will give it a good go next time I'm out. I think the move is awkward especially if you're tall. Jan 15, 2010
sam.f
Santa Cruz, CA
 
sam.f   Santa Cruz, CA
 
Thanks for the comment, Rob. I would agree with you, on both points. I am tall(er) and it took some work for me to send this rig. I have been accused of moderate sandbaggery in the past... Also, see previous comment as to the grade (or lack thereof). Jan 20, 2010

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