Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Alex Baker, Owen Bissell, Eric Bissell
Page Views: 1,883 total · 17/month
Shared By: Scott Bennett on Jan 11, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Boss Man is a new route on Peak 11,357 in the Toulumne high country. Expect adventure getting out here and climbing the route, but we were pleasantly surprised by the rock quality and cleanliness. I won't go into too much detail, because the topo made by the FA team is excellent.

A few comments of my own:
-The first pitch is definitely the standout crux lead. With tricky, strenuous pro and sustained climbing, this one will get you warmed up in a hurry.
-It seemed pretty straightforward to link P3&4
-The route faces West, so a warm day and a late start might be in order.

Location

When looking at the cirque from below, Boss Man climbs the second to last tower from the left. The route starts near the tower's right side. Look for some fixed gear low on the route.

Protection

Again, see topo. I think gear up to #2 Camalot is sufficient (you probably don't need the "optional" 4" piece).
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
Go Alex and Grasshopper! Jul 21, 2010
kenr  
Peak 11,357 ft is somewhere around latitude/longitude approx (37.8033,-119.3637) = (N37.8033 W119.3637)

It's not the same as Rafferty Peak, whose summit has lower altitude of 11,100 ft. Rather ... peak 11,357 is something like 1 mile somewhere SW from Rafferty. Aug 31, 2013
BFK
San Francisco
BFK   San Francisco
Did first pitch and bailed due to several factors:
-Got totally worked on the first pitch (scary lead)
-Lack of psych due to how bad the rock quality was on P1

I am curious how the upper pitches are, but if they are anything like P1 I wouldn't go back. Don't expect much jamming on that pitch,... or good pro. I'd call it heads-up, sustained & bouldery 5.11b/c. Jun 17, 2014