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Playmate

WI4, Ice, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Provo Canyon > Provo Canyon Ice > Provo other areas

Description

Playmate is the left pillar of ice in this area. The first half of this route is steep and sustained and is probably the technical crux. The angle eases off a little at the top of the pillar before reaching a ledge that takes you to 20 ft bulge of ice above the pillar.

In an area that sees little traffic, Playmate can be a respite from the crowds at Stairway to Heaven and Bridal Veil Falls, if you're willing to hike for it.

Location

Located about 400 yards west of Stairway to Heaven, the approach is the crux of this climb. Park as for Stairway and walk west on the trail to Hope Campground until you get to the drainage that contains this route, then slog up the drainage for 40-60 mins. Knee to thigh deep trail breaking can be expected if you're the first to head up after the last storm. Gaiters and shell pants would be a good idea when heading up here.

Alternatively you could park on the south side of the highway just below the drainage and head up from there. Don't park in the pullout on the north side and try to cross the highway. That would be a good way to get killed.

Protection

4-6 ice screws. Rappel from slinged tree at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Some climbers call this area "Little Ouray".
[Hide Photo] Some climbers call this area "Little Ouray".
Playmate and Icemate as seen from the highway.
[Hide Photo] Playmate and Icemate as seen from the highway.
Climbing on Playmate
[Hide Photo] Climbing on Playmate
Playmate is on the left. Icemate is on the right.
[Hide Photo] Playmate is on the left. Icemate is on the right.