Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lidija / Pollen Grain Boulder

Drone Militia V6 7A
Gazelle V5 6C
Hunting Dog V2 5+
Lidija's Mouth V3 6A
Lidija's Mouth Direct V7 7A+
Original Line V0 4
Suspended in Silence V5 6C R
Wanderlust V2 5+
Type: Boulder, 40 ft
FA: Mick Ryan
Page Views: 8,013 total, 84/month
Shared By: Kent Dunham on Jan 7, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


52 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start on 1 of 2 big flakes at head height. Crux is the first move up to a smallish crimp. Stick this and screw up the courage for the long haul to the top. Reachy moves between small sidepulls and gastons leads you straight up and over the bulge (at about 30 feet). Scary!!

Location

Just right of Lidijia's Mouth. I think the starting jug on the left is broken. Right jug is huge and well chalked up. Easy to spot.

Protection

Pads, but a fall from the top will still leave you a cripple.
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
Too bad that it has broken but it felt like a 5 to me! Get that heel up and pull. Beautiful line. Jan 13, 2016
NWNINJA
Nederland, CO
 
NWNINJA   Nederland, CO
 
The move following the dyno is now a hard lock-off/desperate move to a bad/high crimp. I've done the awesome v5 version of this problem 4 or 5 times and this is in a much different league. After doing the new line last week I'd say this is certainly in the v7+ realm. Still a fantastic line but the dyno is no longer the crux, be ready to pull hard with a high heel to gain the next high hold. Jan 3, 2016
Got Drone Militia 3rd try but could not do this (yet :) ). Definitely not a V5 anymore (Jan 2015). Jan 24, 2015
The crux on this is definitely moving up from the crimp above the second jug now. WAY harder than it used to be. Nov 21, 2014
pdxuller
  V7 R
pdxuller  
  V7 R
Due to holds breaking off, this is probably a V7 now, maybe even a V8.

Left start is gone, now dyno only from the right side. Good crimp up left of the jug/rail has been ripped off, revealing a very small edge and making the long move up from there much more difficult (though not too high off the ground and easily protected). Luckily the top out is still solid. Mar 31, 2014
Ben Parsons
  V5 PG13
Ben Parsons  
  V5 PG13
The good crimp above the jug has been ripped off. It's a sad day, indeed. Mar 28, 2014
Tradiban  
 
Left start has to be pretty hard now, sideways dyno maybe? Anyway the regular dyno is still money. Eases off right in time, I thought two pads was sufficient. Feb 21, 2013
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
  V5+ PG13
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
  V5+ PG13
The left start flake is gone for good. Feb 7, 2013
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra