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Tethys

5.7, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.6 from 56 votes
FA: 1998 -Savage
California > Los Angeles Basin > Angeles Nationa… > Texas Canyon > Pangea Wall
Warning Access Issue: 1. RAIN & WET ROCK 2. DANGER OF EROSION DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Nest above Tethys DetailsDrop down

Description

From the toe of the buttress that separates the First Corridor from the Pangea Wall, locate the wide crack/slot feature that begins about six feet from the base and angles up to the left like a ramp. Climb cobbles to reach the crack and continue to a high first bolt above the end to the crack/slot. Continue pulling knobs up the slab to a very large block as the buttress steepens into a broad arete. Here a fourth bolt is found to facilitate the transition to the left of the arete below the block. Continue climbing up the face left of the arete to a 6th bolt on a steep knobby face. Pull the crux and continue to the anchor. Rappel from here, or climb a 2nd runout pitch through large blocks, copious amounts of bird guano, and knobs to the summit. Tethys makes an awesome 170 ft single pitch outing with 10 quickdraws and an anchor. 

Location

Tethys begins at the NW corner of the Pangea Wall, at the bottom of the First Corridor. This is the right hand edge (west end) of Pangea Wall across the mouth of the corridor from Heat Wave and Pain at the Pump and left of Hook 'em Horns.

Protection

P1 - 6 bolts to Fixe two ring anchor.

P2 - 3 bolts to chains. 

The route is fully bolted, but this is NOT a sport route. The first bolt is quite high and there are up to 12 ft. runouts between bolts. There is a new P2 anchor with 1/2" x 5" bolts and chains. The rope pulls as smooth as butter from the P1 Tethys or Kronos anchor, so no need to traverse over to the "Cascada" anchor to descend. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rapping off Tethys.
[Hide Photo] Rapping off Tethys.
Spider on Tethys at the last bolt before belay at top. Proving the route can be done as one pitch with a 60 meter rope. Photo by D. Blattel, 2010.
[Hide Photo] Spider on Tethys at the last bolt before belay at top. Proving the route can be done as one pitch with a 60 meter rope. Photo by D. Blattel, 2010.
Active nest on Tethys, midway up on arete. 5-19-24. Please avoid. We had no idea it was there. If you climb left of the arete you can avoid it easily. I didn't even see the eggs until I downloaded the photo a day later. I hope the parents come back.
[Hide Photo] Active nest on Tethys, midway up on arete. 5-19-24. Please avoid. We had no idea it was there. If you climb left of the arete you can avoid it easily. I didn't even see the eggs until I downloaded…
Tethys 5.8+, 2 pitches, fully bolted. The crux is the steep bit just before half way up. The rest is 5.6 or less. Fun route.
[Hide Photo] Tethys 5.8+, 2 pitches, fully bolted. The crux is the steep bit just before half way up. The rest is 5.6 or less. Fun route.
drone shot from above tethys
[Hide Photo] drone shot from above tethys
Getting acquainted to slab climbing at Texas Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Getting acquainted to slab climbing at Texas Canyon.
Chad Parker and Natalie Strasser on the summit of Tethys - Texas Canyon, CA
[Hide Photo] Chad Parker and Natalie Strasser on the summit of Tethys - Texas Canyon, CA
A climbing party at the P2 anchor of "Tethys," NW shoulder of the Elephant Head.
[Hide Photo] A climbing party at the P2 anchor of "Tethys," NW shoulder of the Elephant Head.
Natalie, Mona and Chad at the belay on Tethys.
[Hide Photo] Natalie, Mona and Chad at the belay on Tethys.
Climbers on P1 of Tethys.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on P1 of Tethys.
Anchors at the top. I took out a small old rusty quick link and added a big one and a rap ring. It's still a mess but is a little better.
[Hide Photo] Anchors at the top. I took out a small old rusty quick link and added a big one and a rap ring. It's still a mess but is a little better.
Reconfigured and simplified P2 anchor on "Tethys." This anchor was further improved on November 6, 2022 to shorten and align the chain.
[Hide Photo] Reconfigured and simplified P2 anchor on "Tethys." This anchor was further improved on November 6, 2022 to shorten and align the chain.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Spider Savage
Los Angeles, ID
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Downgraded from 5.8+ to 5.7 by consensus. A fun route. Well protected in the harder bits and more run-out on the super easy stuff. The first bolt is kinda high but super easy to get to. On the second pitch there are three bolts. Bear to the left from the midway belay. The first bolt is easy to see. The second is just out of site above the large pockets. Second pitch is about 5.3. Kinda run-out but if you can get to it, your not likely to fall. Apr 10, 2010
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
[Hide Comment] This is my favorite of the multipitchs to the summit so far that I've done. Its way less run out then the ones on the hyperion slab on the front of the formation. The anchors at the top are a shit show though, crazy mess of rusty chains. Jun 10, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] The manky anchor with the tiny screw links at the top of the 1st pitch has been upgraded and Fixe 2-ring anchor installed. Also, on the 1st pitch protection bolts #1, 3, 4, & 5 have been replaced and upgraded to 1/2." The 6th bolt was a spinner, but we tightened it down and everything likes sound.
P1 - 6 bolts, 2-ring Fixe anchor. P2 - 3 bolts & a mass of chains linked to 3 bolts for an anchor. Jun 19, 2011
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
[Hide Comment] Nice job on that belay. Those links looked barley strong enough to hold my keys. I just rapped into the canyon when we topped out so we wouldn't have to use them. Jun 20, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Done as a single pitch, "Tethys," is excellent. Carry 11 quick draws and clip one of the rings at the P1 anchor, move left, from the blunt arete to the knob strewn upper face. Clip four more bolts on P2, to the chain anchor. P1 - 6 quick draws and a 7th for the ring. P2 - 4 quick draws. 185 feet of fun and knobs. Mar 25, 2014
Thomas Abernathy
Santa Clarita, CA
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Surprisingly adventurous. Last bolts of both pitches are spinners. Nov 21, 2015
Jeff K
 
[Hide Comment] Did this in 1 long pitch. The route was 185' as previously mentioned, not 200. Two raps to the bottom. Jan 28, 2018
[Hide Comment] attempted to climb both pitches today, but a Falcon had its nest right after the first belay station. Decided to rappel down and leave the bird alone. Sep 15, 2019
[Hide Comment] Thank you for rapping off and leaving the falcon alone. They've nested on that ledge for a long, long time and were firmly established after the last fire closure but were soon chased off by all the hordes who didn't seem to care. I'm guessing people have not been climbing the route much over the summer and they've re-established themselves. Unfortunately, I'm sure they'll get chased off for good again soon as more climbers come in the fall. Sep 16, 2019
Michael Smalley
Santa Clarita, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Very fun cruising. Everything on this upper wall is just pure fun. The chains up top still seem somewhat usable but are looking pretty weathered. We chose to descend with one rap from the Cascada rings (as suggested above) with a 70m + 10 feet of down climbing on the 4th/low 5th class ramp to the dirt. Definitely seems like the best option if nobody is climbing up the route below you. Jul 17, 2021
Slater
  5.7
[Hide Comment] My favorite route so far at the Canyon. Bolted perfectly, nice line, interesting features, and long.
Not runout by traditional standards (Tuolumne, Yosemite, Suicide, J-Tree), but if you're just beginning to emerge from learning in a gym, it'll feel a little runout. Mostly 5.5-5.6 with some exposure that makes it feel harder maybe? BIG features all over the place. Beautiful line. After you take the ramp/"crack" left to the arete and first bolt, it ascends the left side of the rounded arete and keeps trending ever so slightly left to top anchors. Easily rapped with a 60m using the two stations on route. May 20, 2024
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Good, but nothing to get your chonies in a bunch over. A detailed route description by Spider Savage is already there, no need to rehash it. May 21, 2024