Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

American Beauty

V6, Boulder, 18 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 16 votes
FA: Scott Roberts
New Mexico > Socorro Area > Box Climbing Areas > Southern Box areas > Alf Rig
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details

Description

Crux is up high so watch your ankles!

A stellar line anywhere. Powerful moves lead to delicate moves lead to an exciting crux leads to a juggy finish.

Sit start has been done, adds some difficulty (V9-ish) but detracts from the quality.

Location

The big red overhang, past the warm up rock, up the hill from Slappin' the Captain, and immediately to the East of the Tortoise boulder. I need an overview topo for the Alf Rig area...

Anyway, stand start on two slopers kind of on the left side of the overhang, use the undercling to gain the slick ledge. Dive right to the weakness on the lip and pull around and up to the jugs.

Protection

pads and spotters. The big rock has hurt many an ankle.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

American Beauty Boulder<br>
1 - Ripple<br>
2 - American Beauty<br>
3 - The Little Red Crystals in my Kidneys
[Hide Photo] American Beauty Boulder 1 - Ripple 2 - American Beauty 3 - The Little Red Crystals in my Kidneys

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

William Penner
The 505
  V6-
[Hide Comment] Ultra-classic problem, the must-do line for Socorro.

Now the Tech folks just need to blast the landing flat. Jan 6, 2010
Scott Roberts
socorro, nm
[Hide Comment] i fully disagree with bob that the sit start detracts from quality...it is a rad all point dyno to possibly the neatest hueco ever...just saying. Nov 16, 2011
Mateo San Pedro
OR
  V7
[Hide Comment] V7. And anyone who disagrees with me can do so respectfully with a well thought-out argument.

I had to fight HARD for this one and with some pretty gnarly falls from high up. Consider folding up a pad and placing it in front of the rock in the landing zone then a big pad on top. Evens out the landing. Also 2 spotters. And a helmet. Nov 23, 2014
Owen S.
LA
  V6-
[Hide Comment] 4 pads, and this one is good.

I think v5/6 from stand. The crux revolves around your ability to match, and move off a sloper... if you know how to use slopers, and you have reasonable conditions (thank christ it's north facing) then I don't think its a v7 move. Climb in Squamish for a season then come back and try this! Not sandbagging, I think half the classics at box are sandbagged - Pressure Drop, Left to Roof, Chewbacca - but this is one of the few that I think is a bit soft. Anyway, my point is that slopers are a bit of a rarity in New Mexico (well, at least before Roy and Ortegas) so it seems hard in comparison to other box climbs, and that conditions are fairly important too.

Hope that argument was worth reading. We can all agree it's an amazing problem, however. Nov 24, 2014