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Hijacked

5.12b PG13, Sport,  Avg: 2.4 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Echo Cliffs > Kamikaze Cave

Description

Furthest route on the right side of Kamikaze Cave. Starts on the mound. Note a jug broke off between the 2nd and 3rd bolt(1st and 2nd prehung bolts) which allowed you to clip above your head. Now you have to power through a series of painful slaps starting off a mono. Then you move out of the roof and finally clip underneath you for the 3rd bolt. I marked this route as 12b as per the original rating but I feel that it might be in the 12c/d range with the broken hold. Fun moves coming out of the cave.

Location

Furthest route on right of Kamikaze Cave

Protection

5-6 prehanging bolts to open shuts. Bring one draw for the first bolt. If you're projecting this route I recommend hanging at the 2nd bolt and aid-clipping the 3rd bolt just to get those moves dialed as you're looking at a scary fall into the cave wall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Panorama of the Kamikaze Cave with climber on Hijacked
[Hide Photo] Panorama of the Kamikaze Cave with climber on Hijacked
Climb until you fall.
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Ciaran pulls hard...
[Hide Photo] Climb until you fall. Ciaran pulls hard...
Pulling the lip on hijacked<br>
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Photo Credit: Patricia Lin Chang
[Hide Photo] Pulling the lip on hijacked Photo Credit: Patricia Lin Chang
Ciaran Commits..
[Hide Photo] Ciaran Commits..
Pete M.
[Hide Photo] Pete M.
Adam T.
[Hide Photo] Adam T.
Adam T. Hijacked
[Hide Photo] Adam T. Hijacked
Pete M. Hijacked
[Hide Photo] Pete M. Hijacked
Dan W on Hijacked
[Hide Photo] Dan W on Hijacked

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pete Muffoletto
Oakland, CA
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] This route is more in the low 5.13 range by my estimates. It's much harder than its 5.12d neighbor. Consensus? Feb 21, 2012
[Hide Comment] big jug broke a couple of years ago :( Feb 21, 2014
[Hide Comment] I clipped the first pre-hung draw and then moved right before moving up and into the route. Fall would have been a little impactful, but holds were pretty good. Still really fun and in the 12b/c range I thought. Feb 16, 2015
[Hide Comment] Still 12b/c move right at first crux Mar 15, 2016
TheGabernator
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] I ripped off a crucial jug around the 3rd/4th bolt off circa 2007, just as the angle lessens. That modification created a new crux, involving a big move to a pocket, where previously there had been a decent rest. It sounds like another hold has broken off closer to the start, just where the roof starts. The route is surely hard 5.12 now, c or maybe even d.

I actually took the broken hold home with me and kept it for a while as a memento. It whacked me right in the chest as I ripped it off. Sep 14, 2016
[Hide Comment] The permadraws on this climb and many of the cave climbs have nylon slings that are damaged (melted) from the recent wildfire. Until they are replaced, I wouldn't trust any of the synthetic sling permadraws. Apr 23, 2019