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Routes in Kamikaze Cave

Cosmopolitan S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Crash and Burn S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gimp, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hijacked S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Kamikaze S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
No Remorse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ruckus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Zero S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,140 total · 20/month
Shared By: Pete Muffoletto on Jan 5, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Echo Cliffs - Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

Furthest route on the right side of Kamikaze Cave. Starts on the mound. Note a jug broke off between the 2nd and 3rd bolt(1st and 2nd prehung bolts) which allowed you to clip above your head. Now you have to power through a series of painful slaps starting off a mono. Then you move out of the roof and finally clip underneath you for the 3rd bolt. I marked this route as 12b as per the original rating but I feel that it might be in the 12c/d range with the broken hold. Fun moves coming out of the cave.

Location

Furthest route on right of Kamikaze Cave

Protection

5-6 prehanging bolts to open shuts. Bring one draw for the first bolt. If you're projecting this route I recommend hanging at the 2nd bolt and aid-clipping the 3rd bolt just to get those moves dialed as you're looking at a scary fall into the cave wall.

Photos

Pete Muffoletto
Oakland, CA
  5.12b
Pete Muffoletto   Oakland, CA
  5.12b
This route is more in the low 5.13 range by my estimates. It's much harder than its 5.12d neighbor. Consensus? Feb 21, 2012
Timmy B  
big jug broke a couple of years ago :( Feb 21, 2014
Chris Humphries   AZ
 
I clipped the first pre-hung draw and then moved right before moving up and into the route. Fall would have been a little impactful, but holds were pretty good. Still really fun and in the 12b/c range I thought. Feb 16, 2015
Still 12b/c move right at first crux Mar 15, 2016
TheGabernator
New York, NY
TheGabernator   New York, NY
I ripped off a crucial jug around the 3rd/4th bolt off circa 2007, just as the angle lessens. That modification created a new crux, involving a big move to a pocket, where previously there had been a decent rest. It sounds like another hold has broken off closer to the start, just where the roof starts. The route is surely hard 5.12 now, c or maybe even d.

I actually took the broken hold home with me and kept it for a while as a memento. It whacked me right in the chest as I ripped it off. Sep 14, 2016

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