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Routes in The Playground

Country Bumkin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Little Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Orange Pealer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Figurine, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Headmaster Ritual S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lick it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Messie Nessie S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Practice Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Repo Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Show Burro T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dave Kruleski, Danny Rider, 1995
Page Views: 76 total · 1/month
Shared By: Dustysdawg on Jan 4, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route was fun, but a little dirty. I kept breaking off foot holds. With some more traffic it would get a star or two.
The crux is the first 20 feet of OW and the protection is good. The rest of the climb is easier chimney, with adequate protection.

Location

Pretty easy to find. Just walk around right from Electric Orange Peeler for about 200 feet. There is an hourglass flake on the right edge of the climb, about 20 feet up.

Protection

For pro I brought double C4 #3, #4, and one #5, plus an old camalot 3.5, old 4, old 5. Didn't need anything bigger, and only used about half of what I brought.
Sling a block at the top with a double runner.

Photos

Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
In my opinion this thing is not worth leading due to poor rock quality. If you're looking for a fun moderate wide lead walk a little further into Gateway Canyon and do Harsh Width. Much better route and way more fun... Sep 16, 2012

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