Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,292 total · 30/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Jan 4, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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Description

A great problem that is hard to find, but always in the shade. Start on your but and use tricky footwork while following sharp crimps up and right. Try to avoid using the surrounding boulders.

Opposite this problem is Grimace, a v8/9 that climbs up a rounded arete on slopers.

Location

In the corridors area (about 150 yards from the entrance). Locate the "Crack of Doom". Walk around to the left of the crack into a corridor that leads to a cave. This problem will be on your right when you enter the cave, on the backside of the Crack of Doom boulder. Start on big holds with a right undercling and left jug.

Protection

pads

Photos

Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  V6
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  V6
If you like to crimp and have good footwork, this one is pretty soft for the grade. Feb 11, 2013
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  V5
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  V5
agree with jay's comment. this thing felt very, very soft. compare this to deception or cinderella, two other crimpy classics at lrc. face in the crowd is way, way, way easier. Mar 30, 2013
Travis Blair
  V7
Travis Blair  
  V7
To me this felt all of V7... I might not fit into the category of "like to crimp and have good footwork!" If you're here you might as well try Grimace behind you - I thought that felt V7 too (and it's rated V8) Jan 8, 2019