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Routes in Southern Crags

Cold Rush T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unlikely Manicure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Marcy, Geir & Doso
Page Views: 339 total, 4/month
Shared By: Marcy on Jan 3, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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2 Opinions

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Start in a short left facing corner in the center of the face. Follow the vertical crack until it runs out. Continue up to a nice ledge, placing gear in horizontals. From the ledge, move right and continue up the face for another 12 feet to the summit. Belay from 2 bolts on the summit.

Rappel the route from to bolts with quicklinks and leave it carabiners that are located down and (climber's) left from the summit belay bolts.

This is a nice trad line with good rock that protects well. It faces west and gets a good amount of sun from late morning through early evening.

Location

See overview topo

Protection

Doubles to 2"

Photos

Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
ditto marcy's comment. the name for this climb comes from a chance incident that removed part of a fingernail during the FA. (photo to follow). it's helpful to step right from the last ledge to the top to keep the climb on grade. Jan 4, 2010
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
I'm torn between 2 and 3 stars for this route. For the grade, it has some really fun climbing. The rock is very good, it protects well, and has a great summit. I wouldn't want someone to pass this up because it only has 2 stars, yet I can't seem to put in the same group as some of 3 star routes in the area. Not quite sure why this is...but regardless, if you are looking for moderate trad in the area, I strongly recommend this one to you. Someday the consensus will figure out how many stars it is worthy of :) Jan 3, 2010