Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Vagmarken Buttress Right

Best of Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Caw Caw T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gear Thief, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
James Brown's Celebrity Hot Tub Party T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Handed Lesbian TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Probably Been Climbed Before T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right-Handed Dyke T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Used Gear Salesman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Reggie Thompson, Karen Long, and Linda Moran (Oct. 1990)
Page Views: 69 total · 1/month
Shared By: Justin Slagle on Jan 3, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route climbs the Right Dike with an adjacent thin crack to the left on the Vagamarket Hill-Right Buttress and deserves an R rating because pro is nearly nonexistent. The 5.10a part of the climb is for the first 40 feet of the climb and then eases off for the next 60. Fun moves but short lived, and recommended to toprope, but that's your call. About 100' up the climb 15 feet to the right of the headwall for James Brown's... there's a splitter crack to set a toprope anchor where you'll need cams to 3 inches (BD #1,2,and 3, 2's worked best). Setting them high in the crack made the rope run pretty good.

Protection

Cams to 3 inches for the top of the climb and the anchor, no idea what would work for the first 30' of the 10a part.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments

More About Right-Handed Dyke

Printer-Friendly Guide