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Routes in Harmonica Convention (AKA Below Edges)

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Jason Ploss
Page Views: 1,017 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bob Broilo on Dec 31, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This one will cut your left hand unless you tape it. In fact, it is the only problem on Earth that Peck says requires tape.

I mention it here because the sit start from the big start hueco of Project Mayhem looks to add a lot of value to the problem. It will also be somewhat hard, many "big names" have worked it, but it remains an open project.

UPDATE: The original FA, Jason Ploss, has sent from the sit start as of 2014/11/22 (and did not cut his left hand, though he poked a hole in a right finger working it a few weeks ago :-). From the big hueco of Project Mayhem, the problem uses small holds and some nice foot jams and hooks in the hueco to go mostly left but a little up. Then some very powerful pulling to free the feet to get set to throw. I think you are out of luck if you want a grade, even a wild ass guess at this point, all I know is that it is significantly harder than fight club. Anyway it looked pretty freakin' awesome.

Location

Kindof in the middle of the East face of the Fight Club boulder, stand start on two terrible holds about at eye level. Paste your feet, move the right hand in and slap the left horn, which is dismayingly bad and sharp to boot. Problem #3 in the picture.

Protection

pads and spotters

Photos

DaveT
Albuquerque
DaveT   Albuquerque
The sit start went down this past weekend! The father of Fight Club himself linked together an intricate sequence of bad holds and HARD moves to make it happen. Very metal! Nov 25, 2014
MattL
Boulder, CO
 
MattL   Boulder, CO