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Routes in Harmonica Convention (AKA Below Edges)

Bitch Tits V1- 5-
Colon Blow V0 4
Dark Fighter V6 7A
Fart Lighter V3 6A
Fight Club V10- 7C+
Hemorrhoid Rage V4 6B
Miss Potato Head V0+ 4+
Peck's Mystery V4+ 6B+
Project Mayhem V7 7A+
Rubber Walrus Protector V5 6C
Sofa King V4 6B
Space Monkey V5-6 6C+
Super Colon Blow V0+ 4+
Three Star V2, The V2 5+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Eric "Peck" Heatwole
Page Views: 657 total, 7/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Dec 30, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Nice explosive problem relatively low to the ground.

A tough start once you move off the hueco to a sloping hold out left. Figure out how to use this poor hold to move back to the right and a good edge without hitting the pads can be difficult. Once on the good edge out right, set your feet and fire for the square cut edge way above. This hold can be tough to hit in the right spot as you can only see the bottom of the block that you are going to the top of. Continue straight up with some more long reaches but on better holds.

Location

This in on the steep left hand side of the Fight Club Boulder as you are looking down into the gully from above. There are 3 main problems on this face, Project Mayhem is the furthest right, but not the arete. Start from a very low right facing hueco that is a bit bigger than a football.

Protection

Pads and a spotter or two.

Photos

Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
  V7
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
  V7
May also want to mention that it gets tall with a bad landing, although the moves are easy past the dyno. FA was Eric "Peck" Heatwole. I would give it more stars if it weren't for the dabbly, unpleasant start. Dec 31, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
This is problem #4 in the photo listed under Space Monkey. Dec 30, 2009