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Routes in Dylan's Secret Garden Bouldering

Butter Dish V3 6A
Fingerf*cker V6 7A
Happy Birthday Dyno V7+ 7A+
Porcupine V2 5+
Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: Jake R
Page Views: 277 total, 3/month
Shared By: Bob Broilo on Dec 30, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Do a huge dyno off two underclings to the solitary hueco. Crux is sticking the hueco, even though it has a nice sharp edge. Many people have fallen horizontally away from the wall, hand still outstretched and look of disbelief on their faces... put the pads back if you can hit the hueco. Juggy above.

The grade is highly suspect as it has yet to see a repeat by anyone other than Jake.

Jake worked this problem for months, then one day he came out, went straight here, stuck the dyno first try, went home and celebrated his birthday.

A much easier variation is to use lots of sharp and slick holds to avoid the dyno. This is "Timmy's Wonderful Nightmare" V5-ish.

Location

Problem 2 in the photo. Two big underclings, one big hueco a body length up and slightly left. Descent to the East off the back.

Protection

pads and spotters

Photos

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