PRINT: Rock Climb Charlie's Chimney, Smith Rock

Charlie's Chimney

5.6, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 9 votes
FA: Charles Erwin
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (l) Christian B… > Christian Brothers -…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

A potentially hair-raising 6 inch crack that is formed by the right side of the Combination Blocks leaning against the wall.
If my memory serves me, Watts says, 'Boldly layback the start'. Without 6 inch cams or big bros, this would be Bold indeed. I only had one 6 inch cam with me, and it was not easy to place in the crack that turned out to be mostly a little bigger than 6 inches. The crux is at about thirty feet, just before you pull over the lip halfway, so if you only have one, bring that baby with you to protect the crux. I ended up soloing that section, laybacking and smearing on birdshit, with my 6 inch cam 15 feet below me. The upper squeeze section is fun, clean, and a different flavor than most of Smith.
If you have the big cams, and know how to use them, this is a cool route.

Location

Right side of Combination Blocks.

Protection

Hand sized to 6 inch cams.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C h a d

5.7

To reinforce what is said above, yes, save that #6 (or 9" Valley Giant) for the end of the laybacking section. All the laybacking is mellow though there is an insecure move right at the top of the flake. Between the flake and the start of the chimney there's a pocket on the face that takes a #1 camalot perfectly. Above that a #4 can be placed at the bottom edge of the chimney. If you like tight chimneys and can overlook some bird shit you might enjoy the climb.

Chad Oct 24, 2012

Emily Linn
Portland, OR

5.7 PG13

The bird shit is no longer much of a problem! I found the unprotected section definitely startling but exciting, the biggest I had was a four. I loved doing it but would be terrible for a beginner climber. Jun 1, 2022