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Infidelity

M7-, Trad, Mixed, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Dave Rone (belayed by Dan Wilkinson)
International > N America > Canada > Ontario > Ontario Ice & M… > LAKE SUPERIOR W… > Orient Bay Ice… > 3. Ice Palace

Description

This route starts out on the ice that is Cristal Sliver, and then continues up the right-leaning crack. It has a wide variety of movement and takes great gear all the way. Although the worst of the loose stuff was cleaned, be careful as you near the top. Especially as the spring melt progresses. You'll see a rap anchor on a rather small tree directly above the route. There's a bigger, better tree back to the right.

The route name comes from the feeling I was getting at home as a result of going on climbing trips every-other weekend all winter long!

Location

This route is on the wall to the left of the ice route, High Fidelity, which is the first route you will come to as you hike in from the north end.

Protection

4-6 screws, 1-4 Camalots, 2-5 TCUs, and a full set of stoppers. There's a rap anchor on a rather small tree directly above the route, but there's a bigger, better tree back to the right.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First ascent of Infidelity, March, 08.
[Hide Photo] First ascent of Infidelity, March, 08.
Crux of Infidlity.  You won't believe the tool placement that follows this move!
[Hide Photo] Crux of Infidlity. You won't believe the tool placement that follows this move!
The ice is High Fidelity.  Infidelity starts up the ice(down and left) to the ledge, and then follows the right-leaning crack to the top.
[Hide Photo] The ice is High Fidelity. Infidelity starts up the ice(down and left) to the ledge, and then follows the right-leaning crack to the top.