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Routes in Scoop Area

General Lee V2 5+
Jeremy's Sick Crimps V4+ 6B+
Lumberjack V5-6 6C+
Next Message, The V7 7A+
Reverse Scoop V0- 4-
Scoop, The V3 6A
Teachers Pet V0 4
anaconda V10 7C+
Type: Boulder, 5 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 945 total · 10/month
Shared By: andyscott on Dec 22, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

A one move wonder. Grab two small crimps. The right one is really thin and a little bit higher up than the left crimp of which is slopey. Grab the holds pull of the ground and shoot for the slopey lip of General Lee. Top out the same for General Lee.

Location

On the same small boulder as General Lee.

Protection

One pad

Photos

- No Photos -
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
  V9
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
  V9
As the eponymous Jeremy, I can say there wasn't much thought put into this one; it was a screwing around in the woods 'think you can pull on these?' type of thing. I used the low foot only and I'm tall, so it was awkward. Apr 16, 2016
josh villeneuve
Enfield, CT
V7
josh villeneuve   Enfield, CT
V7
"V9 WAY" with feet directly below, felt about v7...but I am on the smaller size so... I second, listing the different variations seperately. Mar 19, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4
Bryce, I like the idea of listing the heel-toe cam as the natural line, maybe name it General Lee Left or something along those lines. Then leave Jeremy's up with a better description, a historical explanation, and saying that it is an eliminate and point out the specific feet that are supposed to be used to make it v9. Nov 26, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V9
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V9
In this case, the name and grade always referred to the dyno - which is an eliminate. Maybe the non-eliminate version should get it's own name... Nov 25, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4
I agree with Lanky, I have always thought that you should post the most natural version of the climb and mention any eliminates or variations in the description. Nov 25, 2013
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
IDK, Bryce. I think I'd call the original method an eliminate if much easier beta is available. Just because the first folks to try it didn't find the beta doesn't mean it's not there. Nov 25, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V9
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V9
Something to think about - if you read the original description of this problem in one of the first guides, it's a dyno. If you view it as the left sit start to General Lee and throw in a heel-toe cam, or apply any amount of technique to a problem that never got much thought, it doesn't have to be a dyno, but at that point, are you even climbing the same problem? So we have two start holds and grades of V4, V5/6, and V8/9 all depending on where you put your feet. Is any one of them more "right" than the other? Nov 25, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4
The heel-toe came makes it v4, I can see with your feet directly below you how it could feel v9 though. Anybody think an Admin or OP should update the grade? Nov 25, 2013
Noah Doherty
Nashua, NH
Noah Doherty   Nashua, NH
This is the heel toe cam.
Oct 26, 2013
Noah Doherty
Nashua, NH
Noah Doherty   Nashua, NH
I totally agree. I think people used the awkward foot in the hole and attempt to pull on with their weight all behind them. I can imagine it feels v9 that way. Apr 9, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Noah, I think that's a fair assessment. I didn't use a heel toe cam (see the video above) but I did put my feet out right (right foot on, left foot flagged a bit). Even without the heel toe cam, it's probably closer to v5/6 (maybe). You'd have to really be using no technique at all to make this feel v9. :) Apr 8, 2013
Noah Doherty
Nashua, NH
Noah Doherty   Nashua, NH
With the right beta this is v6 at most. You can start with a heel toe cam in the start hold of general lee to make it feel v4 and a foot way out left to make it feel v6. It is super fun though, a wild start to a classic slopey moves. Apr 8, 2013
Ryan HInrichs
amherst new hampshire
 
Ryan HInrichs   amherst new hampshire
 
Sent this today using some different foot beta. Not sure what is considered "on" but i used a heel toe cam on the starting hold of general lee. Anybody know what the consensus on this is? Felt way easier. Apr 6, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Footage of this problem starts at 1:46
vimeo.com/51642805
Are these the correct starting holds? If so, this felt easier than v9 to me... Oct 17, 2012