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Roughin' Up the Suspect

5.13c, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 18 votes
FA: Bolted: Greg Houston, FA: Dave Hume
Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > S Clear Creek > Solstice Cave

Description

Roughin' Up the Suspects is an excellent, difficult route (one of the hardest at the Obed) with explosive and devious crux moves.

Start on a pile of rocks and climb jugs to slopey and dynamic moves below the first roof. Clip a high bolt over the roof (long draw usually in place) and execute the boulder problem crux (V7/8) to the horizontal. Climb left along the horizontal (keep your feet on if you can), and swing through the finishing jugs to the anchor. Lower off 30 ft. out from the wall.

Location

The route is just right of Solstice, about thirty feet right of the cable handrail as one hikes right from the Image Wall.

Protection

6 bolts, usually with fixed draws. A stick clip might be nice to get to the first bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sticking the first crux
[Hide Photo] Sticking the first crux
starting the crux sequence
[Hide Photo] starting the crux sequence
Kevin Rowheder gettin' ganster on Roughin' Up the Suspect (13c).
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Photo: @dirtysouthclimber
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Climber: @rowhederkm
[Hide Photo] Kevin Rowheder gettin' ganster on Roughin' Up the Suspect (13c). Photo: @dirtysouthclimber Climber: @rowhederkm
Sick pogo deadpoint leading into the crux sequence.
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Photo: Todd Stebbing @todd.stebbs
[Hide Photo] Sick pogo deadpoint leading into the crux sequence. Photo: Todd Stebbing @todd.stebbs
Roughin' Up the Suspects- 13c.
[Hide Photo] Roughin' Up the Suspects- 13c.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Charlie Cianciolo
Knoxville, TN
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] The boulder problem crux on this route is hands down the coolest sequence I have pulled on a rope. And railing out the roof and riding the jugs to the anchors is one of the most satisfying feelings ever. What a line! Apr 9, 2018
[Hide Comment] This line could possibly be the hardest route currently at the obed, I certainly think so. You walk into the solstice cave, and are immediately struck by the glaring intensity of that crux section. Never doubt that this route is worth every single star possible, and that it will smack down any challenger not wiling to endure a little frustration at the ludicrous cruxes stacked on top of each other. A true testpiece that is always waiting for its next victim. Feb 4, 2019
Corey Flynn
Beattyvillain
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] Everything you would want in a roped boulder problem. Amazing rock, back to back dynos, jugs leading to and away from the hardest moves, sickness. Some take 13b on 8a but it took me three night sessions to put together and seems reasonable at 13c but who knows. Lights up really well in the dark with several spot lights. Used two kneebars. Right one to clip the 4th draw(3rd is skipped). Left knee in essentially the same spot to match the pinch block before the first dyno. Nov 14, 2019