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Routes in The Coop

Chicken Cordon Bulge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coop Scoop, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coop du jour S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free Range T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Going Out Of Chicken Sale T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Last Chicken, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Touching the Coop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Geir, Marcy, and Doso
Page Views: 49 total, 1/month
Shared By: Geir on Dec 20, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

This climb is not on the Coop itself but rather on the tower immediately west of the Coop. The two towers are connected by a natural bridge formed by several blocks. Touching the Coop is on the northeast arete of the second tower. It's necky 5.10 but the thrill is worth it.

While the natural bridge is well away from the route, we still respect its mass! Therefore, we broke with tradition and installed a "clip and lower" anchor at the top of this route rather than making the leader top out. Please check the carabiners at the top before lowering. Note that the carabiners are part of the anchor, please do not remove them or your ropes (and everyone else's) will be badly twisted when pulled.

Start by scrambling up to the left side of the arete, placing gear in a crack. Clip a bolt, move onto the arete, and climb up a few moves (5.10). The gear is good but tricky and a bit spaced out in places. Some committing moves and a second crux lie just before the second bolt.

This climb is for a solid leader at its grade.

Location

On the north arete of the tower immediately west of the Coop. When approaching the Coop from the main trail, bear right on a trail heading to the route. Look for the natural bridge and fixed anchor at the top of the tower as these are the most easily visible marker for the route.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 camalot. Doubles of #2 camalot helpful.
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10
Still my favorite for the Coop. Did them all (except Free Range) yesterday and this one was a super way to wind down a fun afternoon. Didn't feel loose, wonderfully exposed and airy, and had diverse movement and thoughtful placements. Really fun, definitely not PG13 if you're used to LD climbing and gear. Jan 7, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10
I like this route a lot b/c of the exposure and the thoughtful moves needed to get through the crux. The three stars and lack of PG-13 are in expectation of repeated climbs knocking some of the loose stuff off around the 2nd bolt. Knocked some of the big blocks off the top so the "inner crack" on the west-facing face of the Coop, below the big boulders, should now be climbable for the brave hearts! Feb 7, 2010