Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Jeff Russell? Bob Horan?
Page Views: 1,585 total · 13/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Dec 19, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The crux is doing an unfurling campus move from a crossed position on the jug to hit a decent sloper with the left hand. Begin on two small pockets and do a jump/swing move to a good pod, cross match, and do the crux.

This is in the top five in the Wood. Matt Lloyd on Climbing
vimeo.com/5850768 from Nelson Carayannis on Vimeo.

Location

It is at the Electric Kite Wall. From the very first parking lot on the left (by the old house), go back to the road and hike about 50 yards past where the pavement ends and the dirt road begins. Go virtually straight uphill, there is not really a path, so be careful bushwhacking. If you hit the cliff band on the left side, you will see a cave with several chossy problems (that end on the ledge). You need to go about 200 yards (up canyon, i.e. north towards rt 86) to find the line.

Protection

A few pads. The perfect rock (seriously the best in C-Wood) turns chossy at about 15 feet so either steer left and take on the choss or escape right on a slab. Both get the same grade.

Photos

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