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Routes in Black Crag

Raindrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Troutdale Pinnacle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect. HVS 5a T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vertigo E2 5c T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 320 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Paul Ross. Des Oliver. August 1954
Page Views: 694 total · 7/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 18, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description

Another very popular route with both delicate and some strenuous moves.Starts at the older climb of Troutdale Pinnacle Direct.This was Ross's first ever first ascent.Starts just left of the regular Troutdale Pinnacle Climb.P1)Climb the steep slab to a ledge .continue up a flake crack to another ledge traverse right and climb a few feet to a block belay at the top of P1 Troutdale Pinnacle.80'5.6.P2).Move left and climb the steep wall/rib for about 35',step left and continue to a small ledge below a steep crack. 80'5.7+ P3) Climb the crack and move out left at its top.80' 5.8 P4)Climb into the broken groove and make an awkward move right to reach the finger traverse ,at its end climb an easy groove. 35' 5.8/9 (depends on finger size).P5. The final pitch of Troutdale Pinnacle.
An Alternative Finish was Added in 1959 that climbs the groove pitch up the front on the Pinnacle By P.Ross E.Rosher that in later years became Pitch 3 of Raindrop

Location

Just right of start of Troutdale Pinnacle. see FRCC guide book to Borrowdale.

Protection

Normal rack.
Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
 
The Superdirect finger traverse is on the (climber's) left side of the pinnacle while the original route comes at it from the right. The p3 belay is on some dodgy little trees way off to the left from the top of the "steep crack." Jun 6, 2017

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