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Routes in Raco de les Tenebres
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#19 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chupa sangre S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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La Corva de la Felicitat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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La Traviesa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Magic Festival S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Meteora S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mugronet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sátiva Patática S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,182 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
The path to Tenebres snakes around through dense underbrush, thorns & gnarly cactus. Eventually the trail emerges on a small hill, revealing a bird's eye view of a spectacular, overhanging, orange buttress. Magic Festival is one of four world-class lines that breach this magnificent feature. The route is long, continuous & overhanging throughout. Fortunately it also features some of the best jugs at Margalef, making the route a classic enduro jughaul.
Begin from the dusty, sloping trail on the left-most bolt-line. Climb up through the smooth horizontal breaks to a steep swell of cobbles. Two sinker pockets lead up & right to a jumbly cobble rail. Continue right (straight up is the .13a "Escalofrios") across large knobs to another rail, then up into a short groove. Bust over the bulge to gain a subtle prow on the face. Bear-hug the prow, making big slaps between excellent pockets. A few 2-finger pockets here & there keep things interesting before reaching a marginal rest below the gray roof. Rest up, then move left to tackle the intimidating gray capping roof on small incut crimps.
Begin from the dusty, sloping trail on the left-most bolt-line. Climb up through the smooth horizontal breaks to a steep swell of cobbles. Two sinker pockets lead up & right to a jumbly cobble rail. Continue right (straight up is the .13a "Escalofrios") across large knobs to another rail, then up into a short groove. Bust over the bulge to gain a subtle prow on the face. Bear-hug the prow, making big slaps between excellent pockets. A few 2-finger pockets here & there keep things interesting before reaching a marginal rest below the gray roof. Rest up, then move left to tackle the intimidating gray capping roof on small incut crimps.
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