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Routes in Raco de les Espadelles

"6a+" S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Draculin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Sistema S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Guirlache S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Drecera S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
La Gomorra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Maligna S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Memoria Histerica S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perepunyetes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Punto de Gravedad Cero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Que Pasa Neng? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tastavins S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Transilvania S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,377 total · 13/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

El Sistema climbs a spectacular gray tufa streak, with the aid of the "juggy" pockets at the start of La Gomorra (to avoid the 8b+ direct start). This is not as bouldery as many routes at Margalef, requiring mostly good stamina. However, a good bit of finger strength is required for the strenuous crux traverse between the fourth & fifth bolts.

Begin with La Gomorra's burly start to reach the big hole below the fourth bolt. Rest well, then charge up and right into the gray streak. Awesome textured pockets lead up the streak to a series of vertical pods & awkward rests. The final perplexing pod leads to a smooth gray headwall and the redpoint crux: a strenuous highstep & lieback to reach a hidden jug. Big moves left lead to the anchor.

Location

Begins up La Gomorra, cutting right after a rest in the big hole.

Protection

~10 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

Jorde
Barcelona
Jorde   Barcelona
There are many 7c+'s at Espadelles. In my opinion this is the best Jan 26, 2014

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