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> Shepherds Crag
The Bludgeon, E1 5b
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 4 from 2
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Routes in Shepherds Crag
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Adam VS 5a T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ardus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bludgeon, E1 5b, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Catbells ...Hike T,S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a V-easy 3 WI1 C0 Easy Snow PG13 |
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Conclusion E1 5b T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Derision Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eve VS 4c T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fisher's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Just Another Expedition. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Chamonix T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prodigal Sons. . Combe Ghyll 5.11R . E3 6a. T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Ross, Peter Lockey, April 1957 |
| Page Views: | 1,695 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | USBRIT Ross on Dec 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
A spectacular and strenuous last pitch, one of the best in the valley. Starts just left of Little Chamonix.
On the first ascent of this route, before nuts and cams were introduced, only one piece of protection was used on the top pitch, a piton in the groove to the right and below the pinnacle. The pinnacle itself was considered unsafe to place a sling runner.
P1) Climb the blunt arete and finish left of the spike on LC.Scramble to belay at a oak tree on the right side of the terrace. 5.8, 100'
P2) Move left and climb the rib on its left side. Step right around the rib and up a short groove to its top below and right of the large overhanging pinnacle. Climb the crack on the right and get onto the top. Finish up the steep wall by a crack or small holds on the right. 5.9+, 80'
On the first ascent of this route, before nuts and cams were introduced, only one piece of protection was used on the top pitch, a piton in the groove to the right and below the pinnacle. The pinnacle itself was considered unsafe to place a sling runner.
P1) Climb the blunt arete and finish left of the spike on LC.Scramble to belay at a oak tree on the right side of the terrace. 5.8, 100'
P2) Move left and climb the rib on its left side. Step right around the rib and up a short groove to its top below and right of the large overhanging pinnacle. Climb the crack on the right and get onto the top. Finish up the steep wall by a crack or small holds on the right. 5.9+, 80'
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