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Routes in Shepherds Crag

Adam VS 5a T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ardus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bludgeon, E1 5b, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Catbells ...Hike T,S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a V-easy 3 WI1 C0 PG13
Conclusion E1 5b T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Derision Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eve VS 4c T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fisher's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just Another Expedition. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Chamonix T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Prodigal Sons. . Combe Ghyll 5.11R . E3 6a. T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Ross, Peter Lockey, April 1957
Page Views: 1,032 total, 11/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 16, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A spectacular and strenuous last pitch, one of the best in the valley. Starts just left of Little Chamonix.

On the first ascent of this route, before nuts and cams were introduced, only one piece of protection was used on the top pitch, a piton in the groove to the right and below the pinnacle. The pinnacle itself was considered unsafe to place a sling runner.

P1) Climb the blunt arete and finish left of the spike on LC.Scramble to belay at a oak tree on the right side of the terrace. 5.8, 100'

P2) Move left and climb the rib on its left side. Step right around the rib and up a short groove to its top below and right of the large overhanging pinnacle. Climb the crack on the right and get onto the top. Finish up the steep wall by a crack or small holds on the right. 5.9+, 80'

Location

Shepherds Crag, see topo of crag.

Protection

Normal rack

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