Avg: 3 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Hasse & Stutte 1976|
|Page Views:||1,328 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Dec 15, 2009|
DescriptionClassic line up the East Ridge. Great position, good views, tightly bolted crux, runout easier sections.
Pitch 1: scramble up the easy ridge with 3 protection bolts. 5.4 40m.
Pitch 2: up ridge passing two bolts in 25 meters. 5.5.
Pitch 3: Either traverse straight left on big holds to a groove (5.8ish) or angle up passing a bolt to the base of a shallow trough (5.7ish). Finish up groove, passing several trees, to belay. 2 bolts in 25m.
Pitch 4: Crux pitch. Climb up steep rock and some large cobbles. Tightly bolted for the area. 5 lead bolts in 35m. 5.10a or 5.8+/A0.
Neat summit with great views.
LocationThe very obvious and dramatic East Ridge of Doupianifels. Start right at the toe of the ridge with a low angle scramble. Rappel route.
We did manage, in a juicy rainstorm, to rappel the route in 4 30 m rappels, but, I seem to recall we used anchors to climber's right for the last two rappels and ended up in the trees/weeds to the climber's right of the east ridge.