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Routes in Doupianifels

Aber Muckl! S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daedalus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kali Nikta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nightmare S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ostria S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regenpfeiler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Südweg T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Östkante T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Hasse & Stutte 1976
Page Views: 1,349 total · 13/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Dec 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

Classic line up the East Ridge. Great position, good views, tightly bolted crux, runout easier sections.

Pitch 1: scramble up the easy ridge with 3 protection bolts. 5.4 40m.

Pitch 2: up ridge passing two bolts in 25 meters. 5.5.

Pitch 3: Either traverse straight left on big holds to a groove (5.8ish) or angle up passing a bolt to the base of a shallow trough (5.7ish). Finish up groove, passing several trees, to belay. 2 bolts in 25m.

Pitch 4: Crux pitch. Climb up steep rock and some large cobbles. Tightly bolted for the area. 5 lead bolts in 35m. 5.10a or 5.8+/A0.

Neat summit with great views.

Location

The very obvious and dramatic East Ridge of Doupianifels. Start right at the toe of the ridge with a low angle scramble. Rappel route.

We did manage, in a juicy rainstorm, to rappel the route in 4 30 m rappels, but, I seem to recall we used anchors to climber's right for the last two rappels and ended up in the trees/weeds to the climber's right of the east ridge.

Protection

Sparsely bolted, but, tightly bolted at the crux. There are some trees near the top of pitch 3 that can be slung for protection. Fixed anchors are large single glued-in rings.

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