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Routes in Doupianifels

Aber Muckl! S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daedalus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kali Nikta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nightmare S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ostria S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regenpfeiler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Südweg T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Östkante T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown but a long time ago
Page Views: 499 total, 5/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Dec 15, 2009
Admins: WAGbag

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Description

The first pitch starts at the left side of the shallow cave. Fairly short pitch, gaining the low angle area above the cave and below the steeper 2nd pitch trough.

Scramble for around 60m up low angle terrian to the base of the chimney/trough.

Second pitch goes up this trough and is around 40m in length.

A short scramble gains the summit.

A fun route with great views and a nice introduction to climbing at Meteora. Also nice to suss out the standard rappel route from the Doupianifels.

Location

South side of Doupiani. Follow a low angle rib aiming for a small longish oval cave feature on the left (but on the right side of a brushy gully which slants down the south face). Route starts on the left side of this shallow cave. Rappel route.

Protection

Rope and a couple draws and slings. Fixed anchors at the end of the pitches (large glued-in ring) also double as the rappel anchors. I seem to recall a few bolts protecting the fairly run out face climbing.

Photos

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