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Routes in Block Tower

Bungi Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dance of Chance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hurt Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mister Mantle T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Queer Bait T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Dwarf T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wrist Never Sleeps T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Peter Hubbel, Mike Smith, Tom Bohanon, Feb. 1983
Page Views: 613 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Dec 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a nice route on typical South Platte granite. It is mostly crack climbing, including off-width, with some face here and there.

P1- Start up a crack in the left-facing flake and continue straight up another crack to a ramp/crack that trends left to right. Either belay here or follow the ramp up to a big ledge below a large, off-width corner. You can make the start harder by climbing a crack a few feet to the right of the flake at the bottom. This start joins the other start about halfway up the flake.

P2/3- This will either be the left to right trending ramp or the off-width depending on whether or not you combined pitches. For the off-width, grovel up placing #3 and #4 Camalots. End on a ledge next to a big block on the left. The new #4s fit well. The old style is a bit too big (as I found out). This is the 3rd pitch of Queer Bait.

P3/4-Climb up onto the block and move left to a thin crack in the overhang. Power up the crack to the face above and climb to a bolt. From here, it gets tricky. From the bolt, move left and slightly down into a chimney. You can set a semi-hanging belay here from mid-sized cams. When I did the route, there was a leaver biner clipped to the bolt. Using it, your second can have a top rope for the down climbing and can then untie and pull the rope once at the belay.

P4/5- Climb up cracks in the chimney to the summit of the tower.

Pulling the roof on pitch 3/4 is the crux although some might feel that the offwidth is cruxy as well.

Location

Dance of Chance starts about 15' left of Queer Bait. Look for a small inset area next to a left-facing flake and crack.
To descend, walk off to the east and down the slope to the base.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. Extra 3-4" cams are useful. One bolt on pitch 4.

Photos

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