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Routes in White Wall

Choptop S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Double Standard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Expiration S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hunger, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
One Night Stand S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Power of One, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Stain, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
State of Grace S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson (1997)
Page Views: 2,368 total, 25/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Dec 13, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

Start off the ledge just to the right of State of Grace and climb past bouldery moves to the seam above and a committing deadpoint at the very end.

Location

Middle of the face, between the two aretes.

Protection

10 bolts & 3 open shuts.

Photos

5.13C is more accurate. Probably the best route at echo, great job Louie! Bolts are not bad... But the whole crag could use a rebolting within the next decade. Mar 15, 2016
Joey Catama
Thousand Oaks, CA
  5.13c
Joey Catama   Thousand Oaks, CA
  5.13c
This route is more like 13c Sep 11, 2015
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
If the bolts are bad, do the community service thing and replace them before starting to work the thing. Yeah it might suck but if it needs to be done, it needs to be done. You could try to get the FA to do it or at least come up with the bolts but that seems unlikely.

Mono, isn't it usually the case that a chipped route is built to suit? Not that I would do it but if you are going to spend the time beating the rock down wouldn't you make moves that were fun for you? which usually means moves that you are good at as well. On another note, why chip a pocket bigger than you need to get your fingers into? This is pretty common from what I've seen, if the FA had small fingers and the route has pockets or slots and you have fat fingers you may be screwed. Aug 20, 2010
Sean Denny
Irvine
Sean Denny   Irvine
Thanks for the beta, Mono. You're right, it does sound kinda lame, but if the movement is good I suppose it could be worth the effort.
The bolts are suspect though, huh? Lovely. Aug 19, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Its definitely chipped. If "mostly" means more than half, then I would say its not "mostly" chippped. But there are more than a few chipped holds if my memory serves. I thought it climbed really nice, but like many chipped routes, it appears to have been fit to the FAs dimensions, which is kinda lame IMO. Still worth trying if you're in the area. Check the bolts first. Aug 18, 2010
Sean Denny
Irvine
Sean Denny   Irvine
I met a guy last season who claimed that this route is mostly chipped. I was hoping to one day do this thing, but if its mostly manufactured that deters me a bit. I do realize this is echo we're talking about, the most lovable choss pile on the planet, and it is far from bullet stone, but I still prefer more natural routes.
So, does anybody know the extent of chippage on this route? Aug 17, 2010