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Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours

5.9- R, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 1 from 4 votes
FA: R. Berk, Dave Hart, Ryan Nassimbene, '87
Colorado > Golden > N Table Mountai… > Twelve Pack Wall
Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

The hardest part is not dying before you get decent gear in.... You should always be suspicious of climbs with Funeral in the title. The moves are not too hard, the gear is just a bit thin at the start. When you finally get a bomber nut, the difficulties are almost over.

Location

This is just right of Chunky Monkey (just had a pint last night, mmmm). Climb the dirty, thin face to a right-facing flake, and then angle up left on a sloping ledge to join Chunky Monkey. Use its last 2 or 3 bolts and anchor.

Protection

Some small gear (RP or micro cam), a mid-sized nut, a green C4 and some quickdraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the first gear.  The crux is getting to this point.<br>
Photo: Roth.
[Hide Photo] At the first gear. The crux is getting to this point. Photo: Roth.
Dave found you can get pink and red tricams to fit that horizontal at the level of his left hand in this photo.
[Hide Photo] Dave found you can get pink and red tricams to fit that horizontal at the level of his left hand in this photo.
The start.<br>
Where's my belayer?<br>
Photo: Roth (who should have been on belay).
[Hide Photo] The start. Where's my belayer? Photo: Roth (who should have been on belay).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9- R
[Hide Comment] The start is definitely a little spicy. The first gear is 15' up, and there is a back breaking boulder below the initial moves. Use Caution. Dec 11, 2009
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9- R
[Hide Comment] Leo added the photo showing where I found good tri-cam placement in the horizontal crack. Now you might only fall 12 ft before breaking your back on the boulder. I opted to lead Chunky Monkey and TR Spit Fires. The first clip on Chunky is a bit high also, but the landing is better and there's the stick-clip option. Mar 12, 2012